For when you AREN'T going to Europe this summer
transport yourself here
Hello and welcome to Home Movies Tuesday! If you’ve found your way over by some miracle but are not yet subscribed, here, let me help you with that:
Unlike so many, I’ve made the brave choice to NOT go to Italy or France this summer, but that will not stop me from enjoying myself as I would in either of those places: Swimming in wild water, not washing my hair, wearing lots of button-downs with only two buttons buttoned, and, of course, Aperitivo/Apero Hour. Aperitivo/Apero Hour, the grand Italian/French (respectively) tradition of the meal (salty snacks and cold beverages) before the meal, is more often than not, for me: The Meal. Depending on where you’re experiencing this and whom is preparing this delightful hour, there can be many items present, and how you choose to do this is really up to you. Recently, I’ve been skipping meats here because I’ve been eating a lot of meat (see: ribs, hot dogs, grilled chicken, Subway sandwiches with turkey in the car), but generally like to use this type of meal as an opportunity to NOT eat meat. Here is my perfect rubric for such a meal.
Please note: This is NOT “girl dinner.” For those unfamiliar with the phrase or concept, stay pure. For those that do, just know that this is not…that.
Thank you to Maker’s Mark for sponsoring this week’s episode. We continue to love your whiskey and find endless uses for it, all year long- including in this very exceptional, wildly refreshing Paper Plane (on Ice). To get your own bottle, head here.
THE DIP
There should be a dip. This isn’t especially “Italian” or “French,” per se, but it is especially important to always have a dip on most occasions in life and I think you agree. This can be any dip you like– something bean or chickpea based for those non-dairy, or, for anyone else, this labne with sizzled scallion and chili (sometimes referred to as The Dip). The Dip is popular for a reason: it’s tangy, spicy and creamy and presents as Very Thick Ranch, which I love to say. It’s also just visually stunning, and I do like pretty things. I use labne, but full-fat Greek yogurt or sour cream are great here, too. This is probably one of my most made recipes (by me personally, and by a lot of you)– it shows up for Aperitivo/Apero Hour, Ham Parties, Hot Dog Parties…generally any time I have people over. To me, it is perfect.
THE OLIVES
You should have olives and they should be unpitted. I like Castelvetrano olives or any relative of, meaning a large, fruity, firm-fleshed olive. Castelvetrano are easy to find and have a generally “mild olive flavor,” which means they are good for olive-shy individuals (I know several of these people). Why unpitted? Well, to me, pitted olives are like boneless skinless chicken breasts and frankly feel a little lazy. Fine for some things, especially convenience (i.e. crushing or chopping for salads/sauces), but lack flavor and excitement. Putting an olive in your mouth and fishing out the pit is a sensual experience and what is eating if not an opportunity for a sensual experience?
THE NUTS
These can be from a bag or a tin or a whatever– you don’t have to do anything to them, but they should be there. They should at minimum be roasted and salted, which you can buy that way (low lift). Pistachios in-shell make me feel alive, almonds are a little boring, and walnuts are my go-to, specifically when turned into something better by roasting with a little maple syrup, tahini, sesame seed and sumac so they get all sugared and crunchy (without being overly sticky) with even more nuttiness from the tahini and a little tang from the sumac. They don’t take long and are worth turning your oven on for, I promise. They are, if I may, chefs kiss.
THE CHEESE
I don’t want you to feel limited by ONE CHEESE, but a reminder that Aperitivo/Apero Hour is not a cheese board, so keep it together. In this context I am weirdly fine with ONE CHEESE, and that ONE CHEESE is always going to be Parmesan. It is a perfect food, 10/10, no notes. If you want more, a tangy, creamy goat cheese and/or soft bloomy-rind cow’s milk are nice additions but remember this is not a cheese board!
THE FISH (or MEAT)
This can be a time for your little tinned fish collection to shine, but remember this is also not a tinned fish board, so try and contain yourself. In the same way I am married to a hunk of Parmesan as my ONE CHEESE, I will always and forever be committed to a nice tin of anchovies as my ONE FISH. I remove them from the tin and arrange them “just-so” on a sweet little plate because the extra step shows I care, then I top with thin little slices of lemon because I REALLY care. The lemon doesn’t do much unless you, like me, eat the lemon too. I recommend it. This category is also open to “meats,” such as thinly sliced prosciutto, coppa, speck, salami, mortadella, pâté, etc. etc. etc. forevermore amen.
THE CRUNCHY THINGS
Sorry not to be more specific, but this is just like, a catch-all for crunchy things that are meant to be dipped and do not fall into the “nuts” category (arbitrary, maybe, but I DO make the rules). This category should be well represented, and not limited to ONE CRUNCHY THING– there should be multiples. Vegetables (thinly sliced fennel, radish, carrot, celery, boiled potatoes that are not crunchy but you get it), chips (Ruffles) and/or crackers (taralli!).
THE DRINK
Perhaps the real reason we’re all here: The Beveragino. This can be any cocktail of your choosing, but in my opinion it’s best to have something with a little campari/aperol vibe to it, both for the visual that iconic pink color gives (it signals “I know what Europe is and I love to relax”) and for the presumed whetting of the appetite they purport to encourage. While a traditional spritz is nice, sometimes I want something a little stronger for long-term sipping, something that I can batch so I don’t have to think about re-upping cocktails. Something like… A Paper Plane* (On Ice).
*A Paper Plane is a classic cocktail made with equal parts whiskey, Aperol, amaro (nonino) and lemon juice that’s shaken with ice, strained and served up. It’s not too sweet, bitter or acidic, but it is just the right amount of all those things.
For summer reasons, I must have all beverages on ice, and a Paper Plane is no exception. When doing things for more than a few people I also prefer to batch my cocktails, even if that makes me a disgrace to the cocktail community (sorry to all), so I did that here, which lends a sort of “punch” energy– quite nice amidst all the salty things on the table.
Labne with Sizzled Scallions and Chile
makes 2 cups
Among some of my friends, this has become known as “The Dip,” and now I literally cannot attend any social gathering or host any dinner party without someone requesting “The Dip.” When you make it, you’ll know why. It’s my very high-brow version of ranch dressing, and that’s all the intel you need. But if you’d like to know more, there is a scalliony chile oil that gets sizzled with cilantro stems (or chives) and swirled into thick, lemony labne. From there, I’m sure you can assume that the combination of tangy dairy coupled with that herby chile oil already sounds incredible, and maybe you are on your way to making this right now. If you can find green garlic (which tends to be hyper-seasonal and mostly found only at farmers’ markets), use them (or even ramps!) in place of the scallions.
1/3 cup olive oil
4 scallions (or green garlic), white and light green parts, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro (tender leaves and stems) or chives, plus more for garnish
Flaky sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 cups labne, full-fat Greek yogurt, or sour cream
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1. Heat the olive oil, scallions, crushed red pepper flakes, and cilantro in a small pot over medium-low heat. Cook, swirling occasionally, until the scallions and red pepper flakes start to visually and audibly sizzle and frizzle and turn the oil a bright fiery orange. Remove from the heat and let cool enough to taste without burning your mouth, then season with salt and pepper.
2. Combine the labne and lemon juice in a medium bowl and season with salt and pepper. Spoon into a bowl and swirl in the sizzled scallion mixture. Top with extra cilantro, if you like.
DO AHEAD: Sizzled scallion oil can be made up to a week ahead, wrapped tightly, and refrigerated. Labne can be seasoned 1 week ahead, wrapped tightly, and refrigerated. Combine the two just before serving.
Paper Plane (On Ice)
serves 4
Born in New York in 2008, I would call the Paper Plane a “modern classic”. Equal parts whiskey, amaro, Aperol and lemon juice, it’s traditionally shaken and served up in a cute little coupe. While that is lovely and perfect, in the summer I can’t help but require all my drinks to be served on ice, so I do that. Another modification I like, is using Campari instead of Aperol because I enjoy the extra bitterness, but otherwise, the heart and soul of the original is here. Hopefully Sam doesn’t mind.
2 ounces Makers 46
2 ounces amaro (such as nonino)
2 ounces campari or aperol
2 ounces fresh lemon juice
Ice
Lemon peel, for garnish
1. Combine makers 46, amaro, Campari (or Aperol) and lemon juice in a large glass, jar or pitcher filled with ice. Stir to combine, lightly diluting and heavily chilling the cocktail simultaneously.
2. Fill tall glasses with as much ice as possible, pour the drink over, stirring to slightly dissolve some of the ice. Garnish with lemon peel, if you like.
THIS DRESS, I love this dress. I wandered into this store when I was in Australia on book tour and loved so much of what I saw. Good news: They ship to the US.
Amaro Nonino is one of my favorite amaros, full-stop. Decidedly less bitter than a lot of other amaros, a great way to add a complex sweetness to cocktails as well as just sip over ice.
Sadly, there is no link for the awesome vintage bowls, but the next time you can’t sleep, instead of scrolling Instagram, might I suggest cruising Etsy for “glass bowl.” You won’t be sorry! Or maybe you will be if you end up with a “glass bowl” problem, in which case, I’M sorry.
Excellent public service announcement !
I’m reading and I’m all, “yes, yes, I am with you” and then we get to the Paper Plane and I shouted “are you me?!” And this is all literally the best thing I’ve read all day.