I cook the same thing all summer
I cook the same thing all summer
variations on a theme
Hello and welcome to Home Movies Tuesday! If you’ve found your way over by some miracle but are not yet subscribed, here, let me help you with that:
I’ve said it every year, but my cooking is never as boring (a compliment) or as delicious as it is from June 1 to September 1. It’s meat, seared or grilled simply, it’s an herby sauce-something, it’s a tomato salad, it’s another vegetable probably. It’s mostly just variations on a theme—not because I don’t feel creative, but because when meat or vegetables are at their best, that’s when you need to do the least. What a welcomed excuse to “do less!”
In this week’s episode of Home Movies, I’m making “the summer dinner I always make” in real time, a thrill for us all. It’s not a stressful affair, but below I’ll break it down for you should you so choose to go on this adventure with me. The concept of “time management” is something I struggle with (see this episode of Solicited Advice with Robby Hoffman 😵💫), so do as I say, not as I do, etc.
THE DETAILS: It’s the weekend and you’d like to cook for your friends and/or loved ones. Saturday or Sunday are best— If Saturday, the ideal time to eat is around 8 or 9 p.m., and if it’s Sunday, the ideal time is 5 or 6 p.m. Don’t do Friday, everyone’s always late. As for a guest list, 6–8 is the correct number of people to have. 6–8 is manageable and lively, two words I love to describe my dinners. Make sure not everyone is in a couple.
THE FOOD: Pork chops, simply seasoned with salt and pepper, seared in a skillet* dressed with crispy capers and toasted garlic. Cabbage, seared in the rendered pork fat, dressed with the same caper-toasted garlic situation, great for those who don’t eat meat but don’t mind a little pork fat (there are many of you out there, I know). There’s also going to be Corn on Corn, something that will almost certainly be present for every dinner I cook from solstice to equinox and at least one tomato salad. Easy, perfect, chef’s kiss.
*People love to say they love to grill, but I think more people actually just love to eat grilled food (without grilling it themselves). So today’s recipe is to be prepared “in doors,” the opposite of “al fresco” (but you can grill the meat if you want).
HOW TO FLAWLESSLY PULL THIS OFF:
1. Season the pork chops. Do this at least 10 minutes up to 48 hours ahead. When planning for “how much meat” to buy, I estimate approximately 4–6 ounces per person. I prefer to buy expensive, high quality meat and eat less of it. It’s a luxury and should be treated as such!
2. Make the polenta. This will take 15–20 minutes of mostly unattended time. This can be done in advance, and you should. In all my years (🧓) of making polenta, I had never once used or written down a recipe before we shot this episode, but 1 part polenta to 4 parts water seemed to do the trick. If making it ahead, you may find yourself adding more water to return it to the perfect texture just before serving. Polenta texture is personal preference, but the phrase “thick oatmeal” comes to mind.
3. Shuck your corn and remove the kernels from the cob. Alternatively, open your bag of frozen corn. Anyone who thinks you have to use fresh corn is incorrect—it is really good and when it’s in season, it’d be a shame not to celebrate it, sure. But at the end of the day, unripe, out of season fresh corn is worse than frozen kernels, so.
4. Sauté that corn. This will take 5 minutes or less. Try not to eat it all, when you’re tasting it to decide if you want to add more chili flake. This corn is also good spooned over grilled chicken, or next to seared scallops or um pretty much anything you’re making that you think would be good with corn. But eat it over that polenta—it’s transformative. Yum, corn.
5. Sear those chops. This will take 15 minutes or so, then you can let them rest (remember, meat does NOT have to be served “hot”). Please use a large skillet (preferably cast iron) and a good pair of stainless-steel tipped tongs. If I come over to your house (unlikely) and you have rubber-tipped tongs, I will throw them into the trash can. I can not think of a single moment in my life where I thought “I wish these tongs were softer at the tip.” I have never uttered the phrase “babe, have you seen my rubber-tipped tongs?” Rubber-tipped tongs. Why?
6. Make the salsa verde. This is something you can do while your pork cooks because it doesn’t require much skill or attention, so if you have to stop in the middle to peek under a chop, you can.
7. Cook the cabbage. In that rendered pork fat. Nothing better. But, if you must replace the cabbage: fennel, turnips, handfuls of broccoli rabe or kale. Anything quick-cooking that likes pork fat (raises hand) will be wonderful.
8. Okay, it’s nearly time to eat, can you feel it? Delegate your most capable dinner guest to set the table (plates, napkins, forks, knives) and someone else to bring drinks to the table (water, wine, both, whatever). Make sure there is music. Light a candle or nine.
9. Reheat the polenta. Add water if needed to make sure it’s looking “correct,” adjust with more cheese (probably), salt and pepper.
10. Brown the butter, crisp the capers, toast the garlic! This is what we came for.
11. Slice the chop! This is also what we came for. Pour half the caper/garlic mixture over the sliced pork and the remaining over the cabbage.
12. Slice tomatoes and onion. Dress them with that salsa verde. Wow, you just made “a salad.” Spoon corn over polenta. You just made “corn on corn.” Wow again!
13. Finish with herbs, squeeze with lemon, grate the cheese, pour the wine, etc. You are relaxed and hungry, you are calm and capable. You love summer and Corn on Corn is the best thing to ever happen to you. Happy Summer!
For the full recipes, read on.
Director: Doron Max Hagay / Producer: Graham Mason / Photography Director: Eric Schleicher / Audio: Yves Albaret
Camera Operator: Alex Bliss / Camera Operator: Will Colacito / Editor: Maya Tippett / Graphics: Gordon Landenberger
Pork Chop with Capers and Caramelized Cabbage
Serves 6–8
This recipe is simple, really existing to make the case that high quality meat, seasoned sparingly with salt and pepper is a true luxury. Sure, after slicing it’s finished with some capers crisped up in browned butter alongside toasted slivers of garlic, maybe a little lemon, but still—simple. Since it’s best practice to waste not, want not, the rendered pork fat is put to good use, searing wedges of cabbage to get caramelized and tender (cabbage is SO GOOD), but fennel, broccoli, turnips or handfuls of hearty broccoli rabe or kale would also work if you’re not yet convinced cabbage is the second coming.
2 lb. bone-in pork chop, 1”– 1 ½” thick
Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ head green, caraflex or savoy cabbage, cut into 2” thick wedges
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
¼ cup brined capers, drained
A few sprigs thyme, optional
1 lemon, halved for squeezing
Parsley and or dill, tender leaves and stems, optional
1. On a large plate or rimmed baking sheet, season the pork chop with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper (as far in advance as you can. at least 10 minutes, up to 48 hours). If the pork was seasoned in advance, some liquid might have escaped (normal!). Simply blot the chops with paper towels and discard any liquid before searing.
2. Heat olive oil in a large (10–12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat. Once oil is hot (it will start shimmering), add the pork chops, however they fit together. Cook, pressing down with tongs to make sure they make even contact with the skillet, until nicely golden brown, about 5–7 minutes. Carefully flip, and continue to cook, again pressing them into the skillet, another 5 or so minutes.
Extra credit but not necessary– carefully turn the pork chops onto their sides, rotating so the glorious fat cap can get a little color for 2–3 minutes. Transfer chops to a large plate, serving platter, or cutting board and set aside while you cook the cabbage.
3. Lower heat to medium. Working in batches as needed, add the cabbage, cut side-down to the skillet (if your pork chops were especially lean, you can always add a drizzle or so more of olive oil). Season with salt and pepper and cook until nicely caramelized and browned, about 3 minutes. Using tongs, flip to cook cabbage till browned on the other side as well, another 3 or so minutes. Transfer cabbage to a large serving plate or platter; set aside.
4. Still on medium heat, add 2 tablespoons butter to the skillet and add capers and garlic, cooking until the butter browns, the capers get frizzled, and the garlic is toasted, 3–5 minutes. Add a few sprigs of thyme if you like, and a drizzle of olive oil as needed to keep things saucy.
5. When ready to serve, carve the meat off the bone, slice it to your desired thickness (I like about ½” thick for pork) and transfer to a platter. Divide the caper brown butter mixture over the meat and the cabbage, squeeze lemon over everything, and finish with a little dill or parsley.
Polenta with Corn
Serves 6—8
Has there ever been a more pleasing phrase than “corn on corn?” Close your eyes and you can see it now: a bowl of perfectly tender, creamy polenta with plenty of black pepper and just the right amount of Parmesan, topped with some buttery, lightly spiced, just-cooked corn. It’s a starch, it’s a carb, it’s a vegetable, it’s celebrating both peak summer produce and reliable pantry staples, it’s everything! A summer dream if there ever was one (though have been known to make this deep into the cooler season).
However you get to 2 cups of corn kernels (shucking and cutting the kernels off fresh cobs yourself, or using a bag of frozen corn kernels) is fine. Kind of the ideal “make ahead side” for any meat or other vegetables you’re searing or grilling this summer. Both the polenta and the sizzled corn kernels can be made a few hours ahead—just know you may need to loosen up the polenta with a bit of water if it gets too stiff, no big deal.
2 cups coarsely ground polenta
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
3–4 ears corn, shucked and kernels removed (or about 2 cups corn kernels, however you get there)
¼ – ½ cup Parmesan or pecorino, plus more
¼ teaspoon hot paprika
Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
1. Bring 8 cups of salted water to a boil in a large pot. Reduce heat to low and whisk in polenta. Cook, whisking occasionally to prevent clumping or sticking to the bottom of the pot, until cooked through, 15–20 minutes. Once polenta is fully cooked, remove from heat and whisk in 3 tablespoons butter, ¼ cup Parmesan and season with salt and pepper. Season with more salt, pepper and Parmesan as you like.
2. Meanwhile, in a medium skillet, heat 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add corn kernels and season with kosher salt and lots of freshly ground pepper. Add paprika and a pinch of crushed red pepper flakes and cook, stirring occasionally, just to take the raw edge off and bring out the sweetness, 2-3 minutes.
3. Spoon polenta into a large serving bowl and top with corn, more black pepper or crushed red pepper flakes and Parmesan.
I use this 10” Lodge cast iron skillet to (safely!) sear thick-cut pork chops in this episode of Home Movies.
This Le Creuset Dutch Oven—you’ve seen me use it about a million times now, this time to make creamy, corn-on-corn polenta.
I’m wearing these earrings in this week’s video.
I use (and highly recommend using) a sturdy set of stainless steel tongs like these when you’re flipping your pork chops.
EVERYONE loves corn on corn
I will say I use my rubber tip tongs for their only real use—to grab things from the highest shelves