“I’m only here for the sides,” well, same
here's where to find them
Hello and welcome to Thanksgiving Special Week! If you’ve found your way over by some miracle but are not yet subscribed, here, let me help you with that:
It’s time to talk about sides. Assuming the foods we come to expect next to our turkey are going to be there (let’s call these… “old sides”– mashed potatoes, stuffing, cranberries, all of which I’ve talked about a lot before), there’s a delightful freedom each year in deciding what your “new sides” could be – especially should you know there’s little to no flexibility in the rest of the menu. The opportunity to use crushed red pepper flakes or more lemon than your relatives think is necessary. The chance to try that silly shaped squash to see if it tastes good or should be left as decoration. The moment to say to yourself, “maybe I should try to like a salad this year” (you should). These are what “new sides” are for.
Anyway, here are your sides, by category, with some nice options for everyone. As far as how much to make, most of the time “serves 6–8” will still serve in the 10–12 range if you have many sides (which you should). There will be plenty of food. If you’re planning on having minimal sides, say, a potato, stuffing, cranberries and one “new” side, double the recipe.
By chance, nearly everything is Vegetarian and Gluten-Free, but V = vegetarian, GF = gluten-free. If you’re a dairy-free person, you can modify dairy recipes with your dairy-free substitute of choice.
OLD SIDES
POTATOES
Sour Cream and Chive Mashed Potatoes (V, GF) Designed to be a coarse mash with lumps but with smooth parts abound, these are tangy, full of chives and three types of dairy. Inspired by the inside of a twice baked potato or a sour cream and onion chip.
Crushed Potato Gratin (V, GF) Small boiled potatoes, covered in cream and herbs and baked, for those who don’t care about mashed but DO care about creamy potatoes.
Creamy Buttermilk Potatoes (V, GF) Classic creamy-yet-tangy mashed potato with lots of butter, can be as smooth or lumpy as you like, simple or complex– a gold standard for the classic.
STUFFING (Can be V with vegetable broth)
Buttered Stuffing with Celery and Leeks. This is the one you want. It’s the only one, really! If you want it with sausage and kale (which is also wonderful), you can find that here (obviously not vegetarian).
CRANBERRIES
The Cranberries! (V, GF) I love making my own cranberry sauce, and if you're a person who likes to put simple things on your to-do list just to get the satisfaction of crossing them off, you will too. Canned is great, but there is truly no replacement for the adult complexity, acidity and balance of a DIY sauce.
NEW SIDES
New sides to me need to fulfill two categories: a green side and an orange side. This is easily determined by the color vegetable you’re using. Green tends to be fresher and punchy, orange tends to be sweeter and buttery, but life is full of surprises. TLDR; make sure for *visual appeal* and *flavor balance* you have one of both on the table.
Green Bean Casserole (V, GF) Okay, not a new side conceptually, but not always on the table. This version is a celebration of mushrooms and green beans, a true vegetable side. Not too creamy, just rich enough, extremely savory and also uses French’s Onions.
Peppered Squash Gratin (V, GF) Even if you “don’t love squash,” this is hard not to love. Deeply savory, peppery, cheesy– do not skip the crispy sage on top (sage and squash for Fall? Groundbreaking).
The Greatest Creamed Greens (V) I’ve been making creamed greens like this for years and think this recipe is perfection — not too rich, still reminds you you’re eating greens.
Garlicky Buttered Carrots (V, GF) Like a sandwich cut into triangles, the fact that the carrots are sliced into rounds makes them taste above-average delicious.
Brown Buttered Squash, Dates, and Walnuts (V, GF) These squash have EVERYTHING: sweetness, saltiness, crunchiness, chewiness. They’re saucy and tender and if you choose wisely: you don’t have to peel the squash.
SALADS
You need a salad on the table, sorry you do! Case closed forevermore.
Kale Salad with Honey’d Walnuts (has fish sauce V dependent, GF) This dressing is so good I do want to lick the bowl after – but it’s the walnuts fried in olive oil and caramelized with honey that really make it. It is, to me, a new fall classic.
Tangy Fruit Salad (V, GF) I like this with a green salad, not instead of one, but I simply love salads.
Leafy, Herby Salad (V, GF) If you’re worried how a punchier salad might be received on the table, this is your best bet – and also my go-to salad 365 days a year.
Citrus Salad with Bitter Greens (V, GF) Bitter greens and citrus go together like peas and carrots or bitter greens and citrus. While the ingredients here are just that, you could certainly add whatever moves you– crushed olives, chopped capers, a shaving of pecorino or other cheese..
For the recipe, read on.
Thank you SO much to this team, for making this happen. A feat always, but especially at Thanksgiving. Director: Doron Max Hagay @doronmaxhagay / Producer: Graham Mason @grahambomason / Photography Director: Alex Bliss @albertblimp / Audio: Catherine Hood @catherinekhood/ Camera Operator: Daniel Rampulla @danielrampulla / Camera Operator: Johnny Frohman @johnnyfrohman / Graphics: Gordon Landenberger @gordonlandenberger / Editor: John Magary @johnmagary / Finishing Editor: Cooper Conley-Currier @finestworksong and an extra special thank you to Narni Summerall and Antara Sinha for all the help in getting this out the door!
Peppered Squash Gratin
Serves 6—8
This gratin is my favorite thing on the table this year, a shock to everyone including me. The crushed garlic and salty parmesan really curb the sweetness of the squash while the cream, absorbing into it to completely tenderize while also caramelizing around the edges for texture, brings it back ever-so-slightly. It’s a really magical combination. I’ve made it three times since I made it the first time and it’s not even Thanksgiving yet. This is also just a really good side dish, holiday or not. I hope you print this one out and eat it all winter long. Please don’t forget to add so much pepper — it’s in the name!
The hardest part of this recipe is dealing with the squash — always a challenge no matter how skilled you are (you’re not alone if you struggle! I struggle). But do your best. Peel the squash using a regular peeler and don’t worry about bits of skin still attached (or don’t peel and eat the skin). Use a sharp knife and cut it on a sturdy, stable work surface. Once you’ve broken through and sliced the squash, the rest is easy and impossible to mess up (layer with parmesan, garlic, salt and pepper. Cover with cream. Bake until tender and brown, eat).
5 lbs. squash such as butternut, acorn or kabocha, peeled, seeded, sliced ¼” thick
4 ounces parmesan, grated (about 1 cup)
8 cloves garlic, very well smashed, coarsely chopped or thinly sliced
Kosher salt, so much freshly ground black pepper
Crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
4–6 sprigs sage or 2–3 tablespoons thyme, rosemary or oregano leaves
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons butter or olive oil, plus more olive oil
1. Preheat oven to 425°F/220°C (no fan). Layer squash, parmesan, garlic and sage leaves (or other herbs) in a 1.5–2 qt. baking dish, seasoning each layer with salt, LOTS of pepper, crushed red pepper flakes, if you like.
2. Cover with heavy cream and finish with another good sprinkle of parmesan, a good crack of black pepper and a few more leaves of herbs over top. Dot with a few knobs of butter or a drizzle of olive oil and cover with foil. Cover with foil and pop in the oven and bake until squash is totally tender and cooked through, 30–35 minutes.
3. Remove foil and continue baking until top is nicely browned and cream is thickened and caramelized around the edges, another 30–35 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool slightly before eating (should be served warm, though).
DO AHEAD: You can make this ahead up until step 2 a few hours ahead. To serve, proceed at step 3. Alternatively, you can just make the recipe all the way through, and when it comes time to eat it, reheat at 425°F/220°C until warmed through.
LEFTOVERS: This is shockingly good cold. I could also see this warmed up in the oven or microwave with a fried (but runny) egg in the morning.
I couldn’t find the exact casserole dish I’m using, but I like this one on Etsy.
This microplane is perfect for showering parmesan, grating garlic, zesting lemon, etc - on Thanksgiving or…everyday.
Peel or don’t peel (fun stripes are great too) - this is my preferred peeler.
If you’re measuring liquids, always use a “wet” measuring cup.
In case you’re wondering, my peppermill is a Unicorn (but sadly out of stock). I’m obsessed with vintage silver serving utensils - they feel so festive! I love this one and that one (both currently on Etsy).
Hi! Is there a substitute I could use for the heavy cream?
There must be a story behind why you have no sweet potato recipe. To me, they are as essential as turkey and cranberries. No marshmallows for sure, but something simple like James Beard’s preparation with brown sugar and butter.